This article was originally published on “SOLOTEX online” in January 2022.

Naohiro Fujisaki reinterprets military wear. What is “DELTA SLX,” the hybrid SOLOTEX-based fabric adopted in meanswhile’s new collection?

Guided by the concept “As everyday wear, clothing is a tool, not a costume.”, meanswhile continues to pursue clothing as “the tool closest to the body.”

The brand won the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2020 in 2019 and is a rising label drawing attention from around the world.

meanswhile has used a variety of SOLOTEX fabrics over past seasons, and for the 2022 SS season it adopted the hybrid fabric “DELTA SLX.”

What appeal did a brand so committed to functionality find in “DELTA SLX”? We spoke with designer Naohiro Fujisaki.

Please tell us about the meanswhile brand concept.

meanswhile is a brand built on the concept of making clothing focused on functionality while eliminating decorative details. We started in Autumn/Winter 2014, so this is our eighth year.

When you make clothing, do you often decide on the use scenario or purpose first?

Often, I first decide the purpose — “what this garment is for” — and then work out the path to get there. But rather than strictly defining something like “clothing for climbing mountains,” I more often broaden the use a little from there when designing. After all, these are “everyday clothes.”

What kinds of materials does meanswhile tend to choose?

Because we prioritize functionality, we often choose synthetic fibers. That said, natural materials have their own merits, so each season I also keep natural materials in mind as part of the range when selecting fabrics.

Sometimes we use synthetics that look like natural fibers, and natural fibers can also be given functionality through the way they are woven or knitted. Rather than choosing only one or the other, I always try to think along both axes — natural and synthetic.

Doing so, the materials themselves sometimes inspire me, and I think, “Let’s make this kind of item.”

What led you to start using SOLOTEX?

At first, I was drawn to a fabric called “OCTA,” which is lightweight, highly sweat-absorbent and quick-drying, and has heat-shielding properties, and that got me interested in Teijin Frontier. From there I learned about SOLOTEX, and we began using it as a material about two years ago.

Among those, the coat and pants made with “SOLOTEX SYNEX,” which has the look of a natural material, were especially well received. It has a firm, matte texture woven at high density, and when tailored it takes on a distinctive, refined form. And despite its solid silhouette, it doesn’t restrict movement and is comfortable to wear. Until then, pants had actually been a weak point for meanswhile, but after that our pants started getting attention too.

In designing the 2021 Spring/Summer collection you’re introducing here, was there a concept or anything you were particularly conscious of?

There is a phrase that expresses a fundamental principle of design — “Form follows function.” But I feel that few people in the fashion industry actually put that idea into practice. That is exactly why meanswhile has treated it as a core proposition since the brand was founded.

At the same time, I thought there is also the opposite idea, “Function follows form” — finding functionality in something whose shape already exists. Take a stone lying on the ground, for example: you might pick up a sharp stone and use it as a knife, or use a heavy stone as a hammer.

I think that is how tools originally came into being, so this season I focused on contrasting “Function follows form” with “Form follows function” and translating that into “clothing as tools.”

I would say it is a collection made by thinking through many contrasts — such as the way design is approached in fashion and the way tools came to be.

From the 2022 SS season, the piece you are introducing this time is this flight jacket using waffle-knit “DELTA SLX.”

It is based on a Royal Air Force flight jacket from the British air force, and I took its most distinctive feature — the collar detail — and its functionality, and expressed them as a function different from that of the original jacket.

“BEAUFORT FLIGHT JKT”


Specifically, the collar detail was originally designed to hold the hose of an oxygen mask, but we made it so the hood can be stowed there while the collar stands up to create a distinctive silhouette. In other words, we gave it a different function while also taking a fashion-oriented approach.

The waffle sections used on the sleeves and elsewhere are “DELTA SLX.” It is a hybrid fabric that adds the functions of “DELTA” to SOLOTEX: in addition to shape stability and stretch, it is snag-resistant and offers see-through prevention and UV protection. Why did you choose this fabric?

On the original flight jacket, the sleeves are mesh, and I had been thinking I wanted to replace that part with another material when I came across this waffle-weave “DELTA SLX.” I felt this waffle would fit in a contemporary way, so I adopted it.

I believe the tape was originally applied to keep the mesh from stretching, but I think it also works well with the waffle fabric. When the samples came in, I felt that the pairing of material and design had come together well. The silhouette is on the larger side, so it coordinates neatly with slim bottoms.

And there is also a setup made from the same waffle-knit “DELTA SLX.”

This setup was designed with one-mile wear in mind, so we made the body wider to give it a relaxed feel.

Taking inspiration from swimwear, the hems feature a supporter-like detail in a different material. It can of course be worn on its own, and in cooler seasons I think it would also be nice to layer it over a long-sleeve tee or tights.

How did you find working with this waffle-knit “DELTA SLX”?

Besides its excellent recovery, I like that it seems more durable than a cotton waffle. I think it is an excellent material that can be used both against the skin and for outerwear.

You have used many different SOLOTEX fabrics so far. Are there any functions you wish could be added?

I sometimes go camping in my private time, and in the outdoors the outermost layer is basically waterproof clothing. However, waterproof clothing is often synthetic, so when you have a campfire, flying sparks can easily burn holes in it. I often think it would be great to have a fiber that combines flame resistance and waterproofing.

Separately, while synthetics that look like natural fibers have already appeared on the market, I wish there were ones with a bit more character in their hand feel and texture — the kind of rugged feel that people who love fashion tend to like.


See all products made with SOLOTEX here