[INTERVIEW] within
--- With the concept “As everyday wear, clothing is a tool, not a costume,” you set aside the costume aspect of clothing and focus on function. Is functionality the most important thing about clothing?
And is this a sustainable way of thinking?
Fujisaki: If you think about how clothing originally came about, it was first born out of a need for function.
I believe it was something to protect us from the cold and from external threats.
From there, ethnic groups, for example, invented clothing that incorporated a costume aspect in order to strengthen their communities. But I see that, too, as one form of “functionality.”
I think there were many reasons, such as indicating status within a group or distinguishing oneself from other groups.
Today, clothing has been absorbed into the cycle of the fashion business. Clothes that could originally be worn for a long time are seen as outdated after six months to 1 year. This industry has grown by getting people to buy new things in that way. I think that business model emphasized the costume aspect of clothing. But it has reached its limit.
meanswhile was born to propose a new set of values in response to this situation.
It is not that we only want to prioritize function, nor that we want to make convenient things.
We hold up this concept so that people can understand our design philosophy, principles, and way of thinking.
I am convinced that this way of thinking itself leads to sustainability.
--- In your eyes, what defines the functionality of clothing?
I understand it is not just the material itself...
Fujisaki: To think about the functionality of clothing, you first need to know the purpose of the item.
If it is clothing for climbing mountains, the functions needed for that purpose become clear: waterproofing that holds up in the rain, being lightweight and easy to carry, ventilation shaped to release moisture even while wearing a backpack, and so on.
It is this “purpose” that defines function.
--- I understand that the brand name contains your own philosophy that “design is a means, not an end.” Could you explain that?
Fujisaki: This overlaps with my answer to the previous question, but what I value most when making clothes is first setting a purpose.
Then I choose shapes and functions according to that purpose. This act is what is called design.
When you simply try to make something cool, you end up designing for reasons like “it would look cool with tape here” or “a zipper here would look cool.”
That is because designing itself has become the goal.
At meanswhile, we have engraved our philosophy into the brand name so that we never make things that way.
--- Nature plays an important role for meanwhile, both as the backdrop for your lookbooks and, as you say, as inspiration.
How do the existence and functions of things in nature influence the design of meanwhile?
Fujisaki: I receive all kinds of inspiration from nature.
Plants, stones, insects, animals and so on all take their shapes for a variety of reasons.
I think the act of examining those reasons is what influences meanswhile’s design work the most.
--- Today, many outdoor brands make products that are too technical to suit everyday life.
What do you think about the relationship between function and what is actually needed?
Fujisaki: That is a very difficult question.
For example, if you think about spending time in pure nature rather than in a developed city, you may realize that the functions in products made by outdoor brands today are not excessive.
Humans are very small in the face of nature, and there are few situations in nature where we are completely safe.
But for clothes worn in the city, there are many that are over-spec. Even if clothing alone does not provide every function, the city and its buildings fill that role.
Speaking personally, I often suddenly feel like going on a trip. So that I can leave whenever that happens, I carry slightly excessive gear in my everyday life.
Clothing is the same: to connect the outdoors and the city seamlessly, it may be fine for it to be somewhat over-spec. For that, it is best when “design” and “function” coexist.
Well-considered function expands a person’s everyday life.
--- meanswhile’s designs strike a fine balance between function and fashion without overemphasizing outdoor elements.
How do you achieve this balance?
Fujisaki: I place great importance on striking this balance.
It is hard to understand without a diagram, but first, when making a garment, I set its purpose.
There are countless paths toward that purpose, and choosing a path is design.
If you head straight toward that purpose, you end up with something similar to the designs of outdoor brands.
By choosing a slightly different path, we balance function and fashion.
--- In 2022, meanswhile unveiled its first sneaker, the “NEUTRAL RUNNER.”
What is the difference between designing shoes and designing clothes?
Do you plan to continue making shoes?
Fujisaki: Designing shoes is indeed different from designing clothes.
They actually touch the ground and take the entire weight of the body, so they need strength, and the sewing methods and materials for that are different.
There are many aspects you don’t consider when making clothes.
But meanswhile’s design philosophy itself stays the same no matter what we make.
Until now we had only made shoes through collaborations, but this became possible when a shoe designer joined our team.
We plan to continue, but how often is still undecided.
--- The coronavirus pandemic changed the way people dress, and many began to pay attention to the essence of clothing.
Do you think functional brands like meanswhile will become a trend?
Fujisaki: The coronavirus was something experienced by everyone in the world at the same time, and people all over the world began to think about the essence of clothing in the same way.
Given this, I think there is a good chance it will become a trend.
However, I think it is a problem to consume the essence as a trend.
I think what matters is that by becoming a trend it reaches many people, and the way of thinking takes root, even if only among some of them.
--- In addition to lookbooks, meanswhile also produces a concept film each season.
How do you generally come up with ideas and set themes for the concept films?
Fujisaki: For the past several years, we have been making the lookbooks and films with the same team members.
For the films too, we often bring ideas to each other.
Stylist Masataka Hattori takes the lead, selecting a director according to the theme and deciding on locations, shooting methods and so on.
Sometimes we communicate with viewers directly through words and text, sometimes through the story of the video, and sometimes indirectly through conceptual imagery.
--- meanswhile has collaborated with many brands, including Nike, Danner and master-piece.
In a market full of collaborations, how do you define the essential meaning of a collaboration?
What do you value when choosing a collaboration partner?
Fujisaki: We have collaborated with various brands, and I think every one of them was expressed in a good way.
If both sides have a solid brand concept, I think we can offer new values that make the most of each other’s characteristics.
What I look for in a collaboration partner is a clear and well-defined concept.
--- This is the last question.
meanswhile has established a complete world that includes not only clothing and physical products but also its concept, philosophy and values.
As the founder, how do you express this world?
Fujisaki: Making products as a brand is of course important, but what meanswhile most wants to convey is the brand’s philosophy and principles. I believe the customers who choose meanswhile products are those who resonate with them.
Everything, from designing the store space to selecting fixtures for exhibitions, is decided in line with the brand philosophy.
Since conveying this philosophy and these principles is our greatest aim, I believe the world of meanswhile comes to life not only in our clothing but in everything else that shapes meanswhile.
